Quick and easy bookbinding for writers and others who want to see their words in print. Learn to make your own trade paperbacks and hardcover books.
This is a method of making 5 1/2" x 8 1/2" perfect-bound paperback books at home, using cold glue and a hand binding press.The same techniques can be used to make books of just about any size you want. In fact, Gigabooks sells hand-binding presses that will bind paperback books up to 8 1/2" x 11" in size.
Pages - Pages are set up side-by-side on sheets of plain white typing paper (8 1/2" x 11"), so that by folding or cutting the sheets in half, they make pages half that size (5 1/2" x 8 1/2"). Setting up the pages may be done by hand, using scissors and rubber cement, or by using a printer utility program such as ClickBOOK. This wonderful program will take any Windows or Mac files and turn them into a professional-looking page layout, and it does it all automatically. It works like this: once installed on your computer, ClickBOOK intercepts pages going to any laser or inkjet printer and rotates, reduces and rearranges pages into the correct order for double-sided booklets and/or books (it also does brochures, greeting cards, business cards, and much more). So all you have to do is prepare your pages in your favorite word processing, DTP, or graphics program and print. It's extremely easy to use, and I highly recommend it. In fact, I use ClickBOOK to print both the cover and pages of my book, The Perfect Binding Handbook, and my booklet, Easy Hardcover Bookbinding. You may also be able to use your word processing program and/or desktop publishing programs to set up pages. In any case, the pages must be set up in the following sequence: One side of the sheet of typing paper has pages D and A (D to the left) while the reverse side has pages B and C (B to the left). A, of course, is the first page of each four-page grouping, or signature. If you set up your pages on your computer, you can print them out on your printer. If you set them up by hand, you can get them copied at any nearby copy shop. You can download a free trial version of the printer utility ClickBOOK, or just get more information about it, by clicking on the link, below. The trial version is a great way to try the program and see if you like it.
Covers - Covers may be of any material, but should be 8 1/2" x 14" (legal size). This will allow binding books of almost any thickness by setting up the cover at one end and trimming the excess after binding. Covers may be set up and printed from your word processing program or DTP. They may also be printed using ClickBOOK, though you'll have to print the spine of the book from another program (any word processing program will do). Once printed, the cover must be scored twice, alongside each side of the spine, to allow for crisp, square bends where each cover (front and back) meets the spine. However, if your cover is not too thick, you'll probably be able to get by without scoring it at all.
Glue - Almost any contact cement that promises a "strong, flexible bond," or words to that effect, makes an excellent binding glue. Glue is applied to the edges of the pages and to the inside of the spine and allowed to set before the two are joined, so setting time is a consideration. Contact cement is available at any hardware store. An excellent glue for beginners is DAP Weldwood, which takes about 15 minutes to set. This slow setting time is helpful to those with limited experience, as it removes the potential pressure that comes with a quick setting glue ("Oh, no! I've got to get this spread around before it starts to stiffen up.").
Binding - Pages are arranged in the binding press with the cover behind them, the part to be trimmed (after binding) sticking up. The pages and cover are tapped, jiggled, or otherwise maneuvered into position (edges straight, etc.) and then are held in position with one hand while the other pushes and holds the pressing bar against them. The first hand then releases the pages and tightens the wing nuts on the pressing bar until it is tight enough to hold the pages without slipping. With the pages and cover now secured in the press, glue is applied to the back edges of the pages and the inside spine of the cover (between the score marks). When the glue has set, the cover is pushed down firmly onto the backs of the pages. The wing nuts are loosened and the pages and the cover, now stuck firmly together, are removed from the press. The remaining cover is pushed down, into position, and the book is placed beneath a weight to dry for 24 hours. Since all the pages are the same size, and the cover is the same width, the book does not need to be trimmed. All that remains is to trim the extra length from one end of the cover, using a paper cutter, razor knife, or scissors.
For a more complete look at this method of binding paperback books by hand, including step-by-step photos of the entire binding process and a more thorough discusssion of glues and how to use them, see The Perfect Binding Handbook: Making Trade Paperbacks by Hand, by Chet Novicki, available from Gigabooks for a measly $12.95. And now (as of August, 2002) The Perfect Binding Handbook contains a whole new section on invisible staple binding. Learn to make books so strong you won't be able to tear them apart no matter how hard you try. See our order page for more info.
CLICK HERE FOR MORE INFO ABOUT CLICKBOOK OR TO DOWNLOAD A FREE TRIAL COPY.